All too often it seems calamities are impacting our lives. It’s gotten to the point where we’re living in a state of dramatic upheaval and constant flux. In fact, in the decade since the start of the new millennium, we’ve seen more life-altering events than perhaps any other decade since the 1960s. And, with technology prodding us to fly higher, move faster and change constantly, we’re also being asked to adapt to the next big trend before we’ve even been able to fully digest the last one.

Who can deny the volume of information consumers are required to process on a daily basis? Forbes calls it the arrival of “data deluge courtesy of billions of webpages and millions of marketing channels zapping us like bolts of lightning from clouds of bandwith.” Just as industrialization changed the face of society in the 1800s, the tentacles of modern technology are inspiring a new revolution — forever changing the way the world does business and the manner in which we live.

These factors are causing paradigm shifts at macro and micro levels. With the global economy gathering itself after a prolonged recession, the Canadian foodservice industry is still feeling the pinch, with sales for this year’s Top 100 companies less than stellar. (See story on pg. 21.) But while the performance numbers of the past 18 months are telling, the latest indicators also tell us we’ve hit the bottom of the recession and are now moving on to better days.

Still, it’s important to not lose sight of where we’ve come from in order to understand where we’re headed. Recession aside, for almost two decades restaurants have been in a constant state of reinvention. Starting with no-smoking legislation and continuing through the healthier-eating trend (witnessed by low-carb diets, trans-fat bans, the growth of vegetarianism and a surging fascination with local cuisine), there’s also been a steady increase in consumer advocacy with regard to issues such as obesity, the ethical treatment of animals and sustainability. That evolution has created a new foodservice landscape, and operators today are forced to regularly re-examine menu offerings in light of new research and shifting consumer opinion.

For example, Ottawa recently announced it would be looking to the food industry to substantially reduce the amount of salt in processed foods. The Sodium Reduction Strategy will be released this month, and it’s calling on foodservice stakeholders to follow voluntary reduction targets aimed at slashing the average Canadian’s daily consumption of sodium from 3,400 milligrams to 2,300 milligrams by 2016. New, government-mandated menu-labelling requirements are also on the horizon.

In the face of government intervention, market saturation and evolving consumer demands, successful operators must be more creative and find new points of differentiation. They will need to fully understand and engage their customers while always being open to the myriad changes transpiring around them. But while some may lament the burden of change, it’s hard not to get excited about the new direction the industry is heading.

As we move further into the decade, energy will become the new currency of the day. Operators must harness it to forge ahead with innovative ways of doing business, while conserving it at the same time, guided by the environmental mindfulness that’s now part of who we are. From the emerging players on the scene ready to make their mark to the old guard that’s working harder than ever to reinvent itself in a reinvigorated business landscape, it’s a new era with filled with endless possibility.

All too often it seems calamities are impacting our lives. It’s gotten to the point where we’re living in a state of dramatic upheaval and constant flux. In fact, in the decade since the start of the new millennium, we’ve seen more life-altering events than perhaps any other decade since the 1960s. And, with technology prodding us to fly higher, move faster and change constantly, we’re also being asked to adapt to the next big trend before we’ve even been able to fully digest the last one.

Food critics have proclaimed the dining public’s passionate love affair with small plates is over. They said it was just a fling, it wouldn’t last. Well, it seems like those curmudgeons best set their sights on another trend to bury — the resto-lounge, perhaps? — because tapas menus and other eateries offering shared plates and smaller portions are here to stay, at least for the foreseeable future.

Globally and historically speaking, shared-plate eating is the norm in Africa, Asia, India, the Middle East and the Mediterranean. In the traditional cultures of these regions, family and friends have always gathered around a big platter of something delicious to share — and they still do. From Spain to Greece to Russia, bar patrons enjoy tapas, mezze and zakuski, respectively, chowing down on little bites of cured meats, breads and cheeses, pickles and other delicacies. The tradition of dim sum came from southern China, and like dim sum — where diners choose from steamer baskets and tiny dishes containing two- or three-bite portions packed with many different flavours and textures — small-plate dining really puts the customer in the driver’s seat. They taste what they want, when they want, and they stop when they’ve had enough.

New categories of small-plate dining are emerging on menus across Canada, beyond the traditional appetizers, entrées and desserts. At Four in downtown Toronto — a diet-conscious member of the SIR Corp. family of restaurants — a selection of “small bites” are front and centre on the menu, from baked chicken wings with honey soya glaze, star anise and chili ($6) to mini bison burgers topped with avocado, tomato jam and pepper jack cheese ($10). Here, and at Glow, in nearby Don Mills, even desserts have gone on a diet. Diners must no longer try to resist a temptingly rich slab of chocolate cake or a creamy crème brûlée — desserts are downsized versions of cheesecake, tiramisu and chocolate mousse cake, served in tiny shot glasses (one price, one calorie count), and they’re just enough to satisfy a sweet-tooth without ruining the diet.

Cutting-edge chef and self-described perfectionist, Claudio Aprile, has been leading the molecular gastronomy charge in Canada from his much-acclaimed Colborne Lane restaurant in Toronto, where the set, multi-course tasting menu is the thing to order. But earlier this year, Aprile turned his laser-like focus to small and shared-plate dining at his new venture, Origin. “This is a primal way of eating. It’s the way chefs eat, and it’s the kind of food chefs like,” he says. “We graze all the time, and Origin is a very chef-centric restaurant. The open kitchen is right in the middle of the room, and we serve at least six or more of Toronto’s chefs here every night.”

Aprile believes shared plates are a “universal style of eating that doesn’t discriminate.” It crosses cultures and generations, he says, with hip thirtysomethings and Boomers all getting into the spirit of spontaneity and sharing. His “snacks and sides” — think deviled eggs, gremolata and smoked bacon ($3) or smoked-cod croquettes with saffron aioli ($5) — sell best with the after-work crowd, while the rest of Origin’s small-plates menu kicks in at dinner. But Aprile cautions that it’s not all small plates all the time at his new restaurant. “I had a 32-ounce steak on the menu, and usually a table of four would share it, but I’ve seen alpha-males put one down by themselves.”

His decision to turn to a small-plates concept wasn’t just about jumping on the tapas bandwagon — it’s about flexibility, experimentation and fun. “The restaurant business is all about changing and moving; being unpredictable, like a shark,” he says. And, like a shark, a restaurant must keep moving forward or die. “I’m sick of places that try to control you,” Aprile continues. “Where a sommelier tells you what to drink; the chef tells you what to eat — and in what order — and also what to read, if that chef has written a book.”

Origin’s raison d’être is about being energetic, loose and spontaneous, fun, flexible and seasonal. It’s a surprising mandate, coming from a chef so many fellow cooks, restaurateurs and food writers have described as a control freak. But for Aprile, the small, shared-plate format allows for controlled chaos. On a busy night, the kitchen staff of eight will handle 250 covers, and with a small-plates menu, that can mean pumping out 1,600 dishes. “That’s a lot of moving parts and a lot of dishware,” says the talented chef.

And how does a menu like this impact his restaurant’s operating costs? Aprile doesn’t much like discussing the bottom line. “I don’t like to talk about that end of it. I’m a chef. Sure, I’m a businessman, too, but it’s not sexy.” Though Aprile doesn’t talk sales figures, restaurateurs must believe the small-plates trend is profitable, as it’s popping up on menus from coast to coast. The smaller-portions trend is even extending beyond the menu and onto wine lists as well. More and more restaurants now offer wines in two, three, five, or six-ounce pours. And again, it’s about giving the diner more choice, and the opportunity to experiment and try something new.

At Calgary’s Vin Room, which has a whopping 70 bottles poured by the two-ounce glass, the focus is clearly on wine. First-time restaurateur and ex-oil and gas industry executive, Pheobe Fung, took a leap of faith when she opened the place in December 2008, spending a small fortune outfitting her wine bar with eight Enomatic wine preservation and serving systems from Italy. At that time, Vin Room was, and still is, offering Cowtown’s largest by-the-glass wine list.

But Fung also believes there’s no better way to explore wine than with small plates, shared among friends and family. The evening menu at Vin Room is broken into “hot” and “cold” bites, with cheese and charcuterie sold by weight. And it’s ideal for those looking to engage in culinary discovery.

“For our customers, it’s the best way to explore and discover what they do and do not like, in food and wine,” says Fung, who’s proud of her and chef Kai Salmaki’s “flights and bites” offerings. They feature three small tapas items complemented by three two-ounce pours of sommelier Karen Kho’s wine pairings ($35), a selection that changes every week. “If 70 wines by the glass is not enough to keep our customers coming back, then this will,” Fung says. “In this business, you have to stay fresh and keep the customer excited. There are just so many choices out there.”

So, the beauty of shared and small plates is in discovery and control — a bonus for the customer to be sure. But is it a bother for a busy kitchen?

“The kitchen has cooked this way since we opened, so it’s very smooth,” says Fung. “Though, I admit a lot more china is needed. We bought 450 plates (for 150 seats), and it’s just enough…but the poor dishwasher!”

Fung designed her plates to be shared among two-to-four people, but not all the shared plates are small. “We also offer platters of certain menu items. The lobster nachos ($24/tapas/$48/platter) are our biggest seller.” Ultimately, she says, customers spend less on a night out, because they have more control and they’re not “committed to a big ticket entrée, which often means a lot of waste.”

While small plates seem a perfect fit for high-end restaurants, tapas-style and sharing menus are finding their way onto the menus of chains and family style restaurants, too. With 40 locations in B.C., Alberta and Ontario, Milestones  has embraced the small-plates phenomenon. Highlights of its “Starter-and-Share Plates” menu include calamari steak strips with andouille sausage ragu ($10.99) and Milestones’ dry-cured ribs ($9.49), which are served with a side of, well, side plates. And across the country at Milestones locations, Wednesday is date night, featuring a special $50-for-two menu, which asks both diners to share an appetizer and dessert, along with enjoying their own entrée.

“We introduced the small-plates menu in April 2009 and we’re seeing a full-quarter of our customers order from it,” says Milestones’ director of Marketing, Jennifer Gerynowicz. She admits tough economic times may be a part of the small-plates success story, but it’s not the whole story. “Our customers are typically suburban adults between 25 and 49, and about 65 per cent are women.” And, as any woman knows, sharing in restaurants is nothing new — one piece of cheesecake, four forks please!

Milestones’ brand manager Lindsay Robinson adds, “Customers are still splurging, just not as often as they used to. But most diners want the chance to experience more flavours and try more dishes in one outing.”

At dozens of locations across Canada and the U.S., Earls Restaurants also feature a “Snack-and-Share” menu, which is stacked with foods that are perfect for sharing, such as edamame, ribs, wings, and sushi rolls. Customers can also order the Los Cabos chicken tacos ($7.60) or the grilled prawn tacos ($9), and opt for more as they go — each additional one is just a few dollars more.

What does this say about the modern Canadian diner? Do we have short attention spans? Are we commitment-phobic or just culinary thrill-seekers? Who knows, but one thing is certain, the Twitter generation wants it all — their dinner, and messages — in 140 bites or less. And they’re eager to share it. l

Food critics have proclaimed the dining public’s passionate love affair with small plates is over. They said it was just a fling, it wouldn’t last. Well, it seems like those curmudgeons best set their sights on another trend to bury — the resto-lounge, perhaps? — because tapas menus and other eateries offering shared plates and smaller portions are here to stay, at least for the foreseeable future.

Despite a horrendous 2009, foodservice

professionals are tapping into a new energy

that’s reinvigorating the industry

Just how bad did it get last year in the foodservice industry? Speaking at the Canadian Restaurant Investment Conference this past May, Moxie’s Classic Grill’s president Laurids Skaarup voiced his thoughts on the matter rather succinctly: “2009 sucked,” he told attendees gathered at the Hilton Toronto.

Compass Group Canada’s Laurie Brager was appointed as the company’s first director of Sustainability in October 2007. Working closely with Eli Bamfo, Compass’ Environmental Health and Safety Specialist, Brager is helping lead the massive contract-catering giant into a new, green era. F&H caught up with her to talk about the new programs in place and why they are important as the company moves forward.

F&H: What’s the mandate of your sustainability program?

LB: Our first step was to adopt our global Sustainability brand, Compass 360°, in Canada. It’s based on the idea of sustainability as a complete circle — “putting back” whatever you “take out.” In 2009, we re-launched the Sustainability brand as “Our 360°.” This new brand emphasizes and strengthens the idea that it’s our mutual responsibility to commit to provide and implement socially and financially environmentally responsible products, programs and services into our client facilities and our corporate culture.

F&H: How does the program work?

LB: Our Sustainability framework covers four key areas: Environment, Purchasing, Compass in the Community and Nutrition & Wellness (programs that foster healthful, productive workplaces). Our framework is symbolized by these four areas coming together to make a circle, which reiterates the concept of sustainability as an ongoing cycle as well as the inter-connected nature of the focus areas. For example, responsible and sustainable purchasing has a positive impact on the health and well-being of our communities and it plays a role in reducing the environmental footprint of our operations. Our corporate and individual charitable activities complete the circle, by demonstrating our commitment to social responsibility and community involvement.

F&H: What’s been your biggest challenge in implementing the new programs?

LB: Our biggest challenge is the size and diversity of our company. We have eight diverse operating divisions and there are differences between each, as well as within each operating division and client facility. For example, when it comes to waste output, implementing the most environmentally preferable solutions in all locations is difficult. Every location has a different waste hauler with varying waste sorting practices. As such, we have to take a site-specific approach to evaluating the best solution for each location.

F&H: How far does Compass want to go with these initiatives and how long do you think will it take to get there?

LB: We believe in seeking sound scientific understanding as we develop new environmental programs and best practices. This approach further assures the credibility of our programs and avoids “green washing.” We provide customer-focused communications and marketing materials that promote awareness and education behind our initiatives. We want to forge ahead at a pace that allows us the opportunity to implement credible and sound decision making. Ultimately, we believe sustainability is an ongoing journey — a way of doing things — rather than a destination.

F&H: What’s the most significant sustainability initiative you’ve been involved with to date?

LB: Our national sustainable seafood initiative stands out. Through our sheer size and the volume of seafood purchased, we are able to have a significant impact on rebuilding depleted stocks and maintaining the ocean’s ecological balance. Our partner in this initiative, Vancouver-based Ocean Wise, provides us with sound science-based decisions. We have eliminated more than 200,000 pounds of unsustainable Atlantic cod annually, and more than 37,000 pounds of unsustainable farmed Atlantic salmon.

F&H: How have you managed to achieve staff buy-in?

LB: We gain the most momentum and encouragement from our staff associates when we engage them through awareness campaigns that emphasize their personal responsibility to, and stewardship of, the planet. The green champions in our regional offices across Canada — the “Green Lanterns” as we call them — are pivotal to achieving staff buy-in by leading and communicating campaigns to raise awareness and encourage daily environmental and cost-saving practices.

We’re also strong believers in sharing best practices. For example, our “3,600 Acts of Green” campaign is a great example of how we give our associates, clients and customers an opportunity to share their simple daily practices to reduce environmental impacts through a dedicated email site.

F&H: In terms of integrating the various components of this program (energy efficiency, air and water quality, water conservation, waste minimization, environmental purchasing), how do you ensure successful outcomes?

LB: Showing and communicating the environmental and cost savings associated with our programs and initiatives are important steps to getting buy-in from various stakeholders. Developing programs and initiatives that can be easily incorporated into the daily activities of our operations is also important to ensuring full-scale implementation. Given the size and diversity of our operations, we can create significant positive change through product changes in our national and local purchasing contracts.

F&H: What has been the economic impact and cost savings associated with your green practices, in addition to the environmental results and benefits realized?

LB: Using the “triple-bottom-line” approach, our objective is to identify synergies between environmental, economic and social values and achieve mutually shared savings and benefits. That said, there are varying economic impacts associated with our sustainability programs and initiatives. The cost savings vary depending on the level of implementation we have achieved in our operations.

Of course, there are other economic impacts that are even more difficult to measure. For example, Compass Canada’s heightened reputation as a preferred employer — as the recipient of Foodservice and Hospitality’s Green Leadership Award and being named one of Canada’s Top 100 Employers for the second-consecutive year — has a huge impact on employee recruitment and retention.

F&H: How do you see this program evolving in the future?

LB: We work every day toward acheiving foodservice and facility management activities that go beyond adopting sustainability practices to simply being sustainable. Sustainability is as integral to the foodservice operations as food itself, where every decision and program balances environmental, social and financial values. We believe this vision will be well-aligned with our changing and increasingly savvy customer base.

With the foodservice industry being the most energy-intensive commercial activity in Canada, we are also eagerly exploring and identifying initiatives and programs for energy conservation. We believe facility investments and behaviour training — which engages and empowers front-line staff associates to reduce their own environmental footprint through small behavioural practices in their daily activities — present significant opportunities for environmental reductions that not only benefit our operations and client sites, but also the planet.

F&H: In 2007, Compass was cited with an environmental infraction for waste water treatment reporting at one of your remote sites in Alberta. Can you explain what happened? What measures did you take to ensure this wouldn’t occur again?

LB: In 2005, ESS (a division of Compass) subcontracted the operation of a waste water treatment plant in northern Alberta, which was owned by one of our clients, to a company specializing in waste water treatment. This contractor falsified laboratory results, which court documents showed Compass was not aware of.

A proactive measure was taken immediately, resulting in significant changes to our procedures for hiring contractors (i.e., our Contractor HSE Program — procedures for contractors working for ESS) to prevent future occurrences of similar incidents. This document is part of the North American Health, Safety and Environment Management System for Compass Group and ESS North America. We also released policy and procedures to ensure a structured review process for addressing any, and, all requests, notices and orders from environmental regulatory agencies. The policy procedures were endorsed by our CEO, Jack C. MacDonald. l

Compass Group Canada’s Laurie Brager was appointed as the company’s first director of Sustainability in October 2007. Working closely with Eli Bamfo, Compass’ Environmental Health and Safety Specialist, Brager is helping lead the massive contract-catering giant into a new, green era.